Melba Kayak May 03rd, 2018 - 10:19:43
Tips for Transport: Always give the kayak a good push and pull before driving away to make sure you are secure. As a general rule if you can rock the vehicle without the kayak shifting on its perch than you are fine. If the kayak is sliding back and forth on the bars or in the carriers than you need to go back and tighten the straps. If using straps with auto-lock buckles, always put a half hitch in the strapping after tying down to insure that even if the buckle loosens the strap will not come lose. If using ratchet style tie downs it is very easy to over-tighten and do damage to the kayak. So make sure that the kayak is snug, but dont go overboard. When transporting in a flat bed pickup dont choose places on the kayak to fasten to that can fail - like the handles. We recommend passing the straps through the scupper holes of the kayak and tying that off in the bed of the truck. Some cars roof areas can compress/dent in when using foam blocks, these dents usually pop back out. Always try to place foam blocks on the strongest part of the roof (this will be the areas closer to the front and rear windows) Also, if you find that some part of your kayak is making contact with the roof after you tighten it down then placing a piece of rug or padding there is a good idea to protect the car from scratching.
The rigid (hard shell) kayak is what most people think of when they hear the word kayak. Of the various Hard Shell models, a plastic kayak is usually the least expensive but also can be the heaviest. They are usually tough and can take the abuse, but if they get damaged, they are very difficult to repair if at all. A fiberglass Kayak will be a much more expensive model than a plastic model, but is significantly lighter. Fiberglass can be easier to damage, but can also be easier to repair (can be expensive) compare to the plastic version. Composite types such as Kevlar, graphite and carbon fiber kayaks will be even more expensive and lighter still and more costly to repair once damaged then the other two mentioned already.
An experienced kayaker more or less prefer a tighter cockpit, while a beginner will usually prefer a larger one making it easier to get in and out of the kayak. Still other beginners may be concerned about either escaping from a tipped-over kayak or being forced to successfully perform what is referred to as an Eskimo roll in order to get back above the surface. If this is a concern, then perhaps a sit-on-top model with a recessed seat and foot-wells may be a great choice or perhaps going with an inflatable kayak which have multiple air chambers for redundancy which results in greater stability than rigid kayaks. With more stability, unlike rigid kayaks, inflatable kayaks are very easy to get into from the water and less tendency to capsize in difficult paddling conditions.
Its tough choosing a kayak especially your first kayak and there are a lot of questions that need to be explored and answered like: What is the right style or design for you? Pricing out what you can really afford? What type of kayaking are you going to be doing most of the time? The intent of this article is to help you make a good choice based on your research while you are shopping for your kayak. Here are a few guide lines and tips to follow, so lets get started.... First you need to know all the basic construction categories you will run into. There are basically three types of kayak structural classifications: 1. Hard Shell or Rigid kayaks, which can be made up of either:· plastic, fiberglass, Kevlar, carbon fiber Wood.2. Folding kayaks.3. Inflatable kayaks.